Legend · České Budějovice

The Wandering Stone

Přemysl Otakar II Square, by Samson’s Fountain, České Budějovice · 1470 or 1478

In the paving of Přemysl Otakar II Square in České Budějovice, a short way from Samson’s Fountain toward Hotel Zvon, lies a stone with a carved cross. According to superstition, anyone who unwittingly steps over it after nine in the evening loses their way in the town and will not find the path until night has passed. Beneath that superstition lies a real mass execution of ten young men.

Ilustrace k pověsti The Wandering Stone

On the eastern side of Přemysl Otakar II Square, a short way from Samson’s Fountain toward Hotel Zvon, a stone with a cross lies in the paving. It is called the wandering stone.

According to an old superstition, anyone who unwittingly steps over it after nine in the evening loses their way in the town. They will walk the streets, turn into familiar corners, return to places they have already passed, and will not find the path until night has gone.

That stone, however, recalls more than wandering.

According to one version it happened in 1470, according to another not until 1478. A swordsmith come from Germany was then preparing a conspiracy against the town authority in Budějovice. Around him he gathered a group of young men, mostly journeymen. Among them was the ropemaker’s journeyman Filip Rohrmann.

They met secretly at the Golden Grape inn. There the swordsmith laid his plans, and there the initiates also swore an oath of silence. They bound themselves that no one would betray what was afoot. Whoever broke the oath was to pay for treason with his life.

Yet there was someone in the town who knew of their meetings.

It was Filip’s fiancée Markétka, daughter of the town crier Jan Steinstock. The old crier’s sight was failing, so Markétka helped him on night duty on the town tower. She watched the country in his place, kept an eye on the road to Dobrá Voda and Doubravice, and waited for Filip to come.

At first he would not say where he came from so late. From his hints, though, Markétka gradually understood that he had become entangled in something dangerous. She tried to turn him from it.

One winter evening he came again. In the little room by the crier a light burned; old Steinstock rested aside and Markétka was already waiting for Filip. She begged him not to return to the swordsmith and to leave behind the oath that bound him while there was still time.

Filip was long silent. Then he told her he could promise nothing. He had given his oath, and the next day at the Golden Grape they were to finish what they had begun with the others. Then he left Markétka.

He did not know that old Steinstock was not asleep.

The crier had heard the whole conversation. He said nothing to Markétka and lay quietly on as if truly resting. In the morning he went to the town office, reported what he had overheard in the night, and swore to his testimony.

When dusk fell on Budějovice that evening, the swordsmith’s companions began to drift into the Golden Grape. They came singly, carefully, like people who did not wish to be seen together. At last the swordsmith arrived too, and the council began.

Just as they were speaking inside of what each was to do, the door opened.

In the doorway stood town magistrate Jan Kacenhágl. Constables had meanwhile occupied the exits. In the silence that fell the magistrate called on the conspirators in the name of the law to go with him to the town hall.

Someone cried: “Treason!”

At once the light went out.

In the dark confusion broke out. People pushed over one another; blows sounded, overturned benches and the stamp of feet. In that dark magistrate Jan Kacenhágl was stabbed with a dagger.

By whom, no one ever learned.

The constables nonetheless managed to seize all the conspirators, bind them and take them to the town hall. There interrogation began. The judges wanted a single name: that of the man who had killed the magistrate.

No one spoke it.

They asked again. They threatened punishment. They recalled that for the magistrate’s death the death of all might come. The young men, however, stayed silent. None of them named anyone under interrogation, and none broke the oath of silence.

When the court saw that further questioning would change nothing, it passed a death sentence on all ten. The judgment was to be carried out the very next day.

On the main square, near the site of today’s Samson’s Fountain, public executions were held in the Middle Ages. Beside the gallows a beheading block was prepared, and a crowd gathered on the square to watch.

The condemned came one after another. One after another they laid their heads on the block, and the sentence was carried out. Filip Rohrmann stood last in line and waited his turn.

Before him nine men died who, like him, had not betrayed the killer’s name.

When Filip too was to approach the block, the mayor came to him.

“I grant you your life if you say who killed the magistrate.”

Filip stood where he could see everything that had happened before him. A single name would have been enough.

“Let it be done to me as to the others.”

The sentence was carried out on him too.

The dead were buried in the monastery cemetery. According to the legend a stone with a cross was then set into the paving at the place of execution, and it came to be called the wandering stone.

It still lies there. Most people step over it and nothing happens. Others prefer to avoid it after nine in the evening.

How it really was

The Wandering Stone lies in the paving of Přemysl Otakar II Square in České Budějovice near Samson’s Fountain; a superstition of losing one’s way after nine in the evening is attached to it, and a tradition of a mass execution of ten men dated to 1470 or 1478.

The execution happened. Town and chronicle records recall an extraordinary mass execution of ten young men. As late as 1552 a Budějovice entry still remembers it as an event in living memory. The ten executed are therefore not a literary ornament.

The year is disputed. Sources give both 1470 and 1478. After analysis historian Karel Pletzer thought 1478 more likely. The event cannot be fitted into the political frame of the end of Jiří of Poděbrady’s reign: Budějovice had already sided with Matthias Corvinus in 1468.

The magistrate survived. At that time Budějovice had a magistrate Ondřej Koczenczogel, whose surname appears in literature in several forms, including Katzenzagl or Kacenhágl. He did not die when the conspirators were arrested. He is attested long afterward and died a natural death around 1481–1482.

Mayor Jiří Weis got there by mistake. He began to hold the highest town offices only at the start of the sixteenth century; he is listed as primator in 1503–1504. In the 1470s he could not have decided anyone’s execution.

Filip, Markétka, Steinstock and the Golden Grape inn belong to later literary elaboration, mainly the Richter line. The brief core of the tradition speaks only of resistance to the magistrate and a mass execution.

And the hour moved. Belief in losing one’s way after stepping over the stone is attested in writing at least from the nineteenth century, but the time changed in different versions. Eduard Herold in 1861 gives no hour; Richter links the effect to the time of execution between nine and ten in the morning; Hübler in 1876 and 1877 shifts the motif to nine to ten in the evening. Today’s “after nine in the evening” is a later fixed form.

Where to follow the legend

Přemysl Otakar II Square, České Budějovice, a short way from Samson’s Fountain toward Hotel Zvon. The stone with a carved cross lies directly in the paving. Look under your feet, not around you.

Where we know it from

  • ERBAN, Vít. Příběh bludného kamene aneb putování jedné pověsti napříč staletími. The Journal of Culture, 2017, č. 2
  • PLETZER, Karel. K českobudějovické pověsti o bludném kameni. Kulturní kalendář, červen 1970
  • HÜBLER, Franz. Die Sage vom Irrsteine in Budweis. Mittheilungen des Vereins für Geschichte der Deutschen in Böhmen 15, 1876/1877
  • Encyklopedie Českých Budějovic, hesla bludný kámen, popraviště a popravy